{"id":1079,"date":"2021-09-27T20:23:22","date_gmt":"2021-09-27T20:23:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dawson.wpfarmpowered.com\/?p=1079"},"modified":"2024-05-13T17:35:14","modified_gmt":"2024-05-13T21:35:14","slug":"eight-easy-steps-to-pour-epoxy-live-edge-wood","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dawson.wpfarmpowered.com\/?p=1079","title":{"rendered":"8) Easy Steps to Pouring Epoxy for your Live Edge Wood project"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Adding Epoxy to your Live Edge Wood project<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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In this guide, we will teach you how to take a piece of wood that is beautiful but not square and make it usable.\u00a0 We will learn how to fill holes from bugs (or rot) that would otherwise make your table unusable and finally, we will talk about how achieve great results for\u00a0<\/span>river tables – you will learn how to put two pieces of wood together into one piece.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Following are some steps to help your project come together smoothly. Any hardwood will work for this: Some of our favorites: Black Walnut, Cherry, Oak, Poplar, Ash, Maple… as long as it’s a hardwood, it should be fine. If you want to use softwood (Pine, Ceder, Balsa), make sure to encapsulate the piece of wood in at least 1\/4″ of epoxy, so the wood doesn’t dent.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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STEP 1: Choose your epoxy wisely<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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EPOXY’S are not all the same; table top epoxy<\/a> is for pours no deeper than 1\/8″. There is deep pour epoxy, which is intended for 2″ -4″ in depth depending on the project. Also, not all brands are made the same, and you will have to do some experimentation to find the right balance between cost and reliability. To start with, we recommend using deep pour epoxy<\/a>; it’s a rock-solid epoxy and fairly priced – then once you get it down, you can begin to use other brands.<\/p>

If you pour table top epoxy deeper than 1\/8″-1\/4″, it will likely heat too quickly, which in industry lingo is called a “flash” (which means get hard really quick), and can lead to cracking. Inferior deep pour epoxies will do this as well when it reaches a specific volume.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 2: Make a Frame to Hold the Epoxy and Live Edge Slab<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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here are different ways to make a frame; we have found that it doesn’t matter what product you use to make your base and walls if you don’t care about reusing it. You can use melamine, which is a particle board with a white laminate over it. You could use a 1\/4″ pic sheet and a regular 1\/4″ luan underlayment covered with packing tape. Of course, they sell HDPE molds, depending on what size you want – But that gets a bit pricey.<\/span><\/p>

If you’re looking to make multiple productions from a mold, I recommend checking out this manufacturers site: jeff mack supply<\/a><\/span><\/p>

We like using corrugated plastic and use Polymershapes as they have fast shipping times and always have what we need in stock. Polymershapes\u00a0<\/a><\/span><\/p>

Make your walls 3″ tall, and make sure the frame is about 1.5″ wider than the wood slab so you can cut it to square when it is hard.\u00a0 Next, make sure to screw the walls together and down to the floor of the form to hold the frame together.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

To seal the seams, you can use poly sheathing tuck tape<\/a>,<\/span> or caulk to seal the seam. If you caulk it, use silicone; avoid acrylic caulk, which can fail. Let the caulk cure the recommended amount of time to avoid epoxy leaking from the mold.<\/span><\/p>

We recommend this Caulk<\/a> for sealing the seams.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 3 - spray Live edge Mold with mold release<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This step will improve your life dramatically (it stinks to break apart your mold and have parts of your form stay stuck to the table)\u00a0 A can will easily do a 4×8 mold.\u00a0 (Before you move to this step, make sure you have either caulked or taped up the seams and allowed the proper amount of time for the caulk to dry) Spray it in a well-ventilated area with a mask on; this stuff is potent and potentially deadly if breathed.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 4: Prep and place your wood in the form<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Make sure that you clean all of the wood so they are clean and free of bark and dirt before you put your wood slab into the mold.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 5: Calculate your epoxy volume for your live edge project<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Measure the depth of your pour and Measure the length of your pour. As you’re filling the mold, make sure to measure the width of your pour in multiple areas and average them\u2026. (Then go to this site, so you don’t have to do any math:Epoxy Calculator<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 6: Secure your wood in the form for the live edge epoxy pour<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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You need to get some blocks that are the same size, cover the area that touches your wood in packing tape, or another house wrap style tape, so it doesn’t stick if epoxy gets on it and the table. Next, run a board with a clamp across the blocks and clamp it to the table. Doing so will keep your wood from floating on top of the epoxy.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 7: Pour the epoxy on your live edge project<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We recommend that you mix all the epoxy you need for your project with the same color. We have made our lives very difficult by pouring in lifts and not matching the color correctly. Also, be careful with the type of dye\/powder you use. The client will let you know if it should be a solid color with a dye, or if they want a metallic sheen. (Which would be mica powder)
Pour the epoxy to the level of the wood, or slightly over, and hit with a plumbing torch (We recommend this one<\/a>). It will help remove the bubbles.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Step 8: De-mold your Live Edge Table and sand it forever<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Another option we recommend for this part, find a shop like ours and rent<\/a> a wide belt sander for a half an hour, well worth it to save yourself from roughly 6-14 hours of hand sanding.   Remember, it’s important not use to rough sandpaper.  We recommend starting with 220 grit and stepping up to 600 grit finish grade paper for a smooth finish.  Once Sanding is complete, it is time to apply a tongue oil to allow the natural beauty to shine through.  Learn how to take care of your live edge wood furniture here<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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5) important 'Do Nots' to remember when working with epoxy and live edge tables<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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  1. Do not use an acrylic sheet. It warps under heat and will cause issues under your table as the epoxy catalyze<\/li>
  2. Do not apply caulk to your seams after you spray mold release into the mold. It doesn’t stick.<\/li>
  3. Do not use hot glue for your seams. The epoxy heats up, which softens the hot glue, and after 30 minutes, it leaks.<\/li>
  4. Do not pour within 2 hours of installing caulk in your seams. It’s not long enough for it to cure, and epoxy, like nature, will find a way to leak all over your floor.<\/li>
  5. Do not rush the process; if you don’t take your time, it will end up with your epoxy on the ground more often than not.<\/li><\/ol>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Contact us today to inquire on our Live Edge Wood Furniture.<\/h2>

    See why consumers love our unique selection of live edge wood selection. Choose Makers Woodshop<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>today!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Live Edge Wood FAQ's<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHow long does it take for Epoxy for live edge tables to dry?<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
    The drying time for epoxy on live edge tables will depend on a variety<\/a> of factors such as the thickness of the epoxy, the temperature of the room, and how much ventilation is available. Generally speaking, it can take between 24 to 48 hours for epoxy to set and dry completely. During this time, you should avoid handling or disturbing the table in any way to ensure that the epoxy has fully cured.<\/div>
    \u00a0<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
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    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat's the best live edge wood?<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
    When it comes to live edge wood, there really isn’t one single “best” type, as each type of wood has its own unique characteristics and qualities. Generally speaking, hardwood varieties like Oak, Walnut, Cherry, and Maple are among the most popular choices for live edge furniture. That said, softer woods such as Cedar and Pine can also be used to create stunning pieces with a beautiful natural grain pattern. Ultimately, the best type of live edge wood will depend on your personal preference and the overall look you’re hoping to achieve.<\/div>
    \u00a0<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
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    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat is a river table?<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
    A river table is a type of furniture that features a flat wooden surface with organic shapes and \u201crivers\u201d of epoxy flowing through the grain. These tables are usually handmade with gorgeous hardwoods like Oak and Walnut, giving them a unique and one-of-a-kind look that is sure to stand out in any home or office. River tables can also be custom built to feature specific shapes and patterns in the epoxy, further enhancing their aesthetic appeal.<\/div>
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    Live edge wood<\/a> is an incredibly versatile material, so the possibilities of furniture you can make from it are virtually endless. Items like coffee tables and end tables are popular choices, as well as shelving, benches, and headboards. You can also use live edge wood to create unique accent pieces such as bars, wall hangings, desks, and even beds. The possibilities are practically endless when you work with this material!<\/p><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

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    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat's the best epoxy to use for live edge river tables?<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t

    The best epoxy to use for live edge river tables<\/a> is one that is clear, durable, and food-safe. A two-part epoxy system such as ProMarine Supplies Clear Epoxy Resin provides a high-gloss finish and won’t yellow or discolor over time. Another good choice for live edge river tables<\/a> is ProMarine Supplies SuperGloss Clear Epoxy System, which offers superior clarity and durability. Both products are FDA compliant for food contact so you can feel confident that your table is safe to use.<\/p><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t